at the Cherokee-Scottish Festival in Franklin, North Carolina
not far from the “Qualla Boundary,” which is still home
to the Cherokee who escaped
the Trail of Tears
my cousin and I stand
at the table of Cherokee artisans
viewing the exquisite two-color baskets
the sleek carved panthers and bears
the roughly chiseled stone
from the crowd at the table an elderly white gentleman
in a crisp red tartan kilt with all the trimmings
turns out of nowhere to say to my cousin and me:
in Sylva, they are trying to tear down
the Confederate monument, of all things
and he proceeds to say this bad thing about the Blacks
and that bad thing about the Blacks –
they should tear it down!
I interrupt, throwing caution to the winds
who does he think we are, my cousin and me – tourists?
the racists here love to talk
about being in these mountains eight generations –
that’s as long as any white man could be
our own family has been here for eight generations
we marched to tear down the statue in Sylva, for lord’s sake –
we weren’t raised to be racist
my ancestor, among the first Europeans in Franklin
deeded land to a Cherokee chief
to save him and his family
from the Trail of Tears
but we are not innocent –
this same ancestor owned slaves
has promotion of Scottish heritage
become codeword for white supremacy?
my cousin and I go and listen to the bagpipes
before leaving the festival
I love the bagpipes
they remind me of my Scottish ancestry, McIntosh
the bagpipe band played traditional tunes
including “Amazing Grace”
do those tartan-clad players know
that song was written by a former slave ship captain
who became an abolitionist?
the week after the festival the Franklin newspaper
featured a centerfold spread of the “Cherokee/Scottish” event
full color photos of all the tartans and kilts
not one photo of a Cherokee artisan
****
later I go to get my car inspected
at an auto repair shop I’d heard about
owned by a family of old-time musicians –
good people, I’m told
I’m curious – are these the kind of people
I grew up knowing here – heart-solid
kind, honest-as-the-day-is-long
mountain folk?
the young brothers working there are all pale-skinned
with ginger hair and reddish beards
they are incredibly nice, fast and cheap
when I enter the gas station cafè to pay
there is no sign of music or old-time musicians
just a poster for a Christian singer
who will appear soon in Franklin
the patrons, all older white men
look suspiciously at me in my pink mask
“not from around here”
they must be thinking